Devon Estuaries: 01 - The Axe Estuary DE2302

The Axe Estuary is a small estuary running only 2.5 miles from the estuary mouth to the east of Seaton northwards to the present limit of the tidal reach above the Axe Bridge near Colyford. From a viewing point at the Harbour Inn at Axmouth you can see right across the river and marshes to Seaton. At the mouth of the estuary a large pebble and shingle bank has been built up by the west to east drift of the tides of Lyme Bay with this forming a common feature of a number of estuaries in this part of East Devon. In the case of the Axe Estuary this has created a very narrow river mouth.

History

Back in time as early as Roman Times the mouth of the Axe was nearly half a mile wide and the whole of the valley was tidal being an important “Haven”, the term meaning a harbour, making it excellent for fishing ships and trading ships to dock. The Roman Road the Fosse Way running from Exeter to Leicester ran near to Axminster and Seaton making an excellent communications link for goods passing through the Axe Haven. With the Roman period ending in 410 the next period 850 – 950 shows it as an open estuary where Danish incursions with quite large ships navigated to Stedcombe, North of Axmouth (where Stedcombe house now is) which can be translated as “The landing place near the valley.” Whilst high ground North of St. Gregory’s Church was another landing dock in Seaton and was known until very recently as “Merchants Roads”.

In 1346, Seaton was still a port, but shingle movement from West to East probably started about 1350 marking changes between the sea level and the land masses, landslips from the Haven Cliff and the shingle bar essentially closed off its tidal flows restricting the amount of water contained in the estuary. By 1450, work had begun on a new harbour, and many desperate attempts were made to keep the river mouth open for shipping, but all were doomed to failure. As the river mouth narrowed, at one stage it was completely closed, with water percolating under the shingle to get to the sea.

The reduction in water resulted in tide washed mud flats which over time developed into salt marshes. In the 1660’s the Lord of Manor of Seaton, John Willoughby, built a reclaiming bank which cut off the marshes from the tidal water. Sluices in the bank let fresh water out at low tide and kept salt water out at high tide. The old salt marshes became freshwater grazing meadows.

In the 1900’s, a family named Hallet, built Stedcombe House, and set about making improvements to the harbour mouth. There was some success, and a pier was built which enabled ships of up to 100 tons to load and unload and there was a regular weekly passenger boat to London. In 1869 a huge storm destroyed the pier, but it was not viable to rebuild it. Since in 1868 the railway had opened following the building of the railway embankment following the line of the original Willoughby reclaiming bank but extending further north. The reclaiming bank had to be raised by about 3 feet, and widened by about ten feet. As to take soil from the western side would have interfered with the drainage schemes, it was taken from the eastern side, creating the tidal creeks close to the bank on the river side.

Transport

The road out of Seaton now passes alongside the old concrete bridge now used by pedestrians being one of the oldest concrete bridges in Britain and now an historic monument. The bridge was opened in 1877 as a toll bridge, but the “Road” to Axmouth was still a mud track, very much liable to flooding. The toll was removed in 1907, but the Great War 1914-18 interrupted plans to improve the road, and it was not until 1924 that the riverbank was raised, and the present road along the east side of the river was constructed. This old bridge allows you over the estuary to the small harbour area at the base of the Haven Cliffs.

Unique to Seaton is the electric tramway which become possible when British Railways closed the Seaton to Seaton Junction branch line as part of the Beeching cut backs in March 1966. Claude Lane who had an interest in trams and had owned the Lancaster Electrical Company in Barnet, North London making battery electrical vehicles such a milk floats established a permanent tramway site in Eastbourne called the Modern Tramways Ltd. By the 1960’s Eastbourne due to road developments became impractical so having purchased the Seaton to Colyton section from British Railways in September 1969 he moved the whole system over from Eastbourne. The first passenger service ran on the 28^th August 1970. Unfortunately Claude suffered a heart attack and died on the 2^nd April 1971. Allan Gardner took over as Managing Director and continued to grow the tramway.

Towns and Villages

Seaton

Seaton is a seaside town situated on the eastern side of the mouth to the Axe Estuary facing into Lyme Bay forming part of the Jurassic Coast. It existed 4000 years before Roman times with Iron Age forts within the vicinity. In 2013 a hoard of 22,000 Roman coins was unearthed dating from the 4^th Century. Many of the town buildings are Victorian.

Axmouth

Axmouth was a major port in the 1450’s. The village includes some thatched cottages and a church with a 15^th Century tower and a carved Norman doorway and pillars. The remains of a late medieval fishing boat can be seen at low tide in the River Axe just south west of the village.

Colyford

Colyford is sited near the Coly Valley that takes the River Coly into the River Axe. The village has a typical Saxon street arrangement. It is a short walk to the Tram Station where trams run from Colyton to Seaton.

Colyton

Colyton first appeared as an ancient village around 700 and features in the Domesday Book. It grew into an important agricultural centre and market town with a corn mill, saw mill, iron foundry and an oak bark tannery. The Church of England parish church of St Andrew’s is a Grade 1 listed building. The Seaton Tramway terminates at nearby Kingsdon on the other side of the River Coly.

Industry

In 1700’s, salt making in the estuary was re-introduced, nearly six centuries after it had ceased. Salt water was evaporated in “Pans” – shallow scrapes lined with clay and when sufficiently reduced, removed by buckets and boiled. It took approximately 50lbs of brine to produce 1lb of salt. Part of the marsh was called “Salt Plot” in the Seaton Map of 1840 and this industry is remembered in the naming of Salt Pan Lane, the road that leads to the sewerage works and Seaton Marshes Local Nature Reserve.

Wildlife

The Axe Estuary supports a rich variety of birdlife supporting resident, wintering and migratory birds. During autumn and winter the tidal waters, the low water mud flats and the adjoining banks, meadows and marshland provide a haven and feeding ground for a remarkably wide range of species from geese to grebes and widgeon to waders. Many species come in as migrants to breed in summer whilst osprey and the avocet may pass through in spring and autumn. There are many residents including kingfisher, shelduck and heron. Rarer species whose presence varies year upon year include smew and little egret. But with the effects of climate change nothing can be guaranteed whilst for the enthusiast’s surprises can be just around the bend.

Conservation

In 1980, a new sewage works was required, and in order to protect the site, a flood bank was constructed from the tramway right up to Merchants Lane. Some of the soil required was taken from what is now known as The Borrow Pit. The Axe Vale and District Conservation Society was quick to realise potential of this area, and acquired the lease to form a small nature reserve. This is now called the Seaton Marshes.

In 2001, part of Seaton Marshes was acquired by East Devon District Council, and formed into a Local Nature Reserve, with ongoing management steadily increasing the number of birds finding it attractive. Later, the Colyford Common Local Nature Reserve, North of Stafford Brook, was created.

These have now been integrated into an area termed the Seaton Wetlands where extensions have been made to both the Seaton Marshes and Colyford Common original sites.

Viewings

The tidal limit can be viewed looking north from the Axe Bridge at Colyford (1). Driving down

the east side of the estuary on the B3172 to the Harbour Inn at Axmouth allows you to look across the estuary from an open grassed area off the road. This is considered a favoured location for bird watchers. (2). Then continue down to where the B3172 passes next to the old concrete bridge at Seaton to view this bridge and the harbour back drop. (3). Driving down the B3172 you can view the Tramway on the opposite side of the estuary. (4).

On the west side of the estuary a public footpath runs from the Harbour Road car park (6) to St Gregory’s Church (7) providing excellent views of the open marshland. Further north you can access the Seaton Marshes (5) allowing you down to the estuary bird watching hide. (8)

But the best way to view the estuary from the west bank is to make use of the unique narrow gauge electric tramway that runs along the old railway embankment. From Easter to September old fashioned looking double decker trams open on the top trundle up and down from Seaton to Colyford to Colyton allowing for the viewing of the marshlands and the huge variety if birdlife from the comfort of a tram seat. This is possibly one of the most comfortable ways to view an estuary very suitable for those less able to walk the distances.

Points of Interest on the Map

1. Axe Bridge near Colyford

2. Harbour Inn at Axmouth

3. Seaton Concrete Bridge

4. Electric Tramway Embankment

5. Seaton Marshes Nature Reserve

6. Harbour Road Car park

7. St Gregory’s Church

8. Flooded Borrow Pit